Measure Guide
How to measure for a stair runner
The runner length you need is roughly the number of steps × (tread depth + riser height) — plus extra for any landings. For a standard 13-step staircase, that's about 18–20 feet of runner, before you account for landings.
Step-by-step
Count your steps (treads, not landings)
Walk up your staircase and count each step you stand on. The top of the staircase doesn't count — it's the landing. A typical residential staircase is 12–14 steps.
Measure one tread and one riser
Tread = depth of the step (front to back), usually 9–11 inches. Riser = height of the vertical face between steps, usually 7–8 inches. Pick a representative middle step; the top and bottom are sometimes irregular.
Calculate runner length per step
Tread + riser = runner needed per step. A 10" tread + 7.5" riser = 17.5" per step. Don't try to wrap the runner over the nosing precisely — installers will tuck and tack it; the calculation gets you in the ballpark.
Multiply by step count, then add landing inches
(steps × per-step length) + (landing length × number of landings). Convert to feet and round UP to the next whole foot — runners are cut in 1-foot increments, and you want a few extra inches at the bottom to tuck.
Pick a width that leaves wood showing on each side
Stair treads are typically 36–42" wide; runners come 24" or 30". Leaving 3–6 inches of bare wood on each side reads intentional and lets the stair architecture breathe. Wall-to-wall makes a stair feel narrower.
Order with 6–12" of cushion
Round up to the next foot, then add another foot if you have any irregular treads or a quarter-turn landing. Excess can be trimmed during install; a runner that's an inch short can't be stretched.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Using the staircase's wall-along length (the diagonal up the wall) — that's the rake measurement, not the runner length, and it'll come up short by 20–30%.
- Forgetting the landing — a quarter-turn landing adds 3 ft of needed runner; a half-landing adds 4–5 ft.
- Ordering the exact computed length with no slack — installers always need a few extra inches to tuck under the bottom riser and trim cleanly at the top.
Ready to order?
Custom-cut runners in your exact width and length, bound and finished by hand. Most orders ship in 1–2 weeks.
Configure your runnerFrequently asked
Can I install a stair runner myself?
Yes, but expect to spend a Saturday. You'll need a staple gun (or a pneumatic stapler), a stair tool to push the runner into each tread/riser corner, and a partner to keep tension consistent. For a curved or pie-shaped staircase, hire it out — those need angle cuts that are easy to ruin.
Do I need a separate stair runner pad?
Yes, and it's not optional on stairs — pad cushioning is a real fall-safety factor under foot. We sell stair-cut pad in 28" and 32" widths to match a 24" or 30" runner with overlap; cut to length once installed.
What's the difference between waterfall and Hollywood install?
Waterfall = the runner drapes from the nosing of one tread straight down to the next, no contouring. Cleaner look, faster install, hides minor measurement errors. Hollywood (a.k.a. French) = the runner is contoured tight against each riser with a crease. More tailored, more work, requires precise dimensions. We don't sell installation, but every runner we ship works for either.
Will the same runner work on a quarter-turn or pie-step staircase?
Mostly — but you'll need it cut into segments by your installer, with the angled treads handled separately. Order 1–2 ft extra for the cut waste. If your staircase has more than one quarter-turn, walk an installer through it before ordering; the cut math gets specific.
More measure guides
Measure Guide
How to measure for a hallway runner
A runner should leave 4–6 inches of bare floor on each end and roughly 4 inches of floor on each long side. Anything closer to the wall reads as wall-to-wall carpet; anything farther floats and bunches.
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Measure Guide
How to measure for a kitchen runner
In a kitchen, a runner is a workhorse — it cushions where you stand, protects the floor where you splash, and breaks up a long galley visually. Pick a length that covers your active zones (sink + range, or sink + island) without crossing into door swing zones.
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